I'm back again with an update on how my pattern drafting is going. I have been rather busy posting vintage patterns to my Etsy store, so I haven't made much progress. But the need to have a blog post today certainly helped get more done!
This is the first working "muslin" of one of my skirt slopers cut on the bias grain. It is fairly decent, but I decided I wanted a little more ease through the hip. So I took it back to the drawing board to add more width.
I added a half inch on each side of the pattern, for an extra inch of ease. I think it was fine as it was, but an extra inch would be better.
This next draft is cut on the straight grain. I wanted to know how well the pattern would work on the straight grain versus the bias grain (the diagonal grain), or whether this needed to be cut only on the bias. Bias as a rule drapes and flows better, but would most likely take up more fabric and may not suit the design of the fabric. (For example, I may not want my stripes to run diagonally.) Since the skirt is not very wide, I don't think it matters too much. I should point out that the bias grain stretches more than the other grains. I ran a short stitch length of stay stitches at the waistband to keep the waist from stretching out with the bias. This waist was on the cross grain, but the waist was slightly curved which put it partially on the bias.
Pardon the bubbles on the right side. Pinning the seam allowance where the zipper would go, is not the easiest feat. This is the test of the wider skirt cut on the bias. I like the width and the drape of this test skirt.
I think the wider skirt wins out to be used to make the design. The time I spent working on the other skirt sloper isn't wasted, because I think it will be just right for a dress design I have.
I would certainly be glad to hear your comments and opinions on this project!
What do you think?
Would you wear this skirt design?
Sarah loves to sew, learn more about sewing, and create items with a vintage flair. Her arch enemy is clipping curves, and she has a tolerable relationship with the seam ripper.
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